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| More Pool Designs |
With a string level, determine which stake has been driven into the
highest bit of ground, and plan for the rim of the pool to extend an
inch or so above ground level at that point. From a mark on the high
stake, use the string level to transfer the level point to all the other
stakes, and mark them accordingly. (See Drawing 4.)
Strips of quarter-inch plywood, cut cross-grain, make the best forms.
With shingle nails, fasten the strips lightly to the stakes along the level
points. Apply the string level again (and again and again) and when
you are sure the form for the pool rim is level, go around and nail the
strips securely to the stakes (Drawing 17).
If the site is uneven but the form for the rim is perfectly level, the
form will now be touching the ground in some places, standing above
it in other places. When you start excavating, use the dirt to bank in
the low spots.
Here, as with other types of pools, the ideal water depth is 2 feet,
and the ideal thickness for the pool shell is 6 inches. However, the pool
walls can safely be tapered to a 4-inch thickness at the top if you prefer.
The pool shell should set upon a 3- to 4-inch layer of tamped cinders
or crushed stone. Therefore, the depth of the excavation will be 2 feet,
plus 6 inches for the floor, plus 3 or 4 inches for the foundation layer
of cinders or stone.
The end of the pool in which you will locate the outlet, if an outlet
is planned, should be dug an inch or two deeper, with the rest of the
floor sloping toward it.
While excavating, do not make the slope of the walls any steeper
than 40 to 45 degrees. Wet concrete won't stay in place on a steeper
grade.
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